That Quilt

Rainbow Jane K-2

2011-11-18T13:50:00.000-08:00

A little on the wonky side but I've found that steam helps a lot.
Blocks also straighten out quite a bit when you sewing them together with the sashing.

Progress so far (171 blocks)

(BTW: BOM signups for February 2012 are now open.)

Rainbow Jane K-1

2011-11-17T12:40:00.001-08:00

Why is red such an awful color to scan?

Rainbow Jane J-11

2011-10-26T07:34:00.001-07:00

Row J is now done, but I haven't made a single block in rows K-M.

Steady progress

2011-10-25T10:42:00.000-07:00

I should count how many melons Jane appliquéd!
She clearly loved them.

Rainbow Jane J-10

2011-10-23T08:28:00.000-07:00

This took about 12 hours total.

It turned out better than the original, I think.
The main reason was that I used the "freezer paper on top" method for the new one and I had used the "freezer paper inside" method originally.
I you have paper inside your shapes it makes them just a tiny bit larger and, on a block this little, it makes a huge difference.
If the shapes are too big, you really have to squish them into their spots.

Rainbow Jane I-11

2011-10-21T12:55:00.000-07:00

All rows up to row I finished!

Rainbow Jane I-10

2011-10-20T08:47:00.000-07:00

I had trouble with this one last night.

Finished is better than perfect, right?

Rainbow Jane RS-7

2011-10-19T10:14:00.000-07:00

Announcement!

2011-10-18T13:37:00.000-07:00

This blog now has a Facebook page!

I personally find it easier to keep up with Facebook pages than blog readers, so I figured there must be others who feel the same way.

The blog will still publish to readers but all posts will appear on the Facebook page as well.

http://www.facebook.com/thatquilt

Rainbow Jane H-12

2011-10-18T12:02:00.001-07:00

Rainbow Jane F-12

2011-10-15T15:34:00.000-07:00

Rainbow Jane H-8, G-9

2011-10-15T04:59:00.000-07:00

Finished these on Thursday.

H-8

G-9

This is where I'm at

2011-10-14T02:54:00.000-07:00

It took a couple of hours, but I think I have my ducks in a row...

Not that many blocks left, actually.

Help!

2011-10-13T10:56:00.000-07:00

First, a lesson. Don't do this:

Make blocks halfway, then store them in little ziplock baggies without labeling them. You won't remember. Trust me.

Batik Jane

2011-10-11T09:52:00.000-07:00

(This is a double post, so if you read my other blog too, my apologies).

I'm not doing much myself right now, but a friend and I went "Stash Dashing" on Friday.
As you may or may not know, I'm a little obsessed with Dear Jane quilts.
This one is made with batiks.
Stunning!

(It is on display at Heirloom Quilts in Poulsbo, WA. The lady who made it works there but did not want to pose for a photo. Hats off to her for this absolutely lovely work of art!)

B-2

2011-03-07T23:05:00.000-08:00

B-2 (16 pieces, 60 minutes)

Instructions over here: http://thatquilt.blogspot.com/2009/01/b-2.html

Finished a couple of RBJ blocks

2011-02-28T07:54:00.000-08:00

I had a couple of Rainbow Jane blocks that were complete except for the applique.
I figured that, since I "had" to sit in front of the television for a couple of hours to watch the Oscars, this would be a good time to work on them.
And keep my hands out of the cookie jar. Do you tend to eat while watching television?

I prepped them beforehand and laid them out on the kitchen table.

This way I could get to them one by one without missing one moment.

BTW...I'm not normally an obsessive television watcher.
I just love the Oscars.

Calling all bloggers!

2011-02-26T07:18:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I decided to remove the list of "Jane" bloggers in the sidebar, since most of them had gotten really outdated.
I didn't think anyone was even looking at them any more, but now I've gotten a couple of emails wondering where they went.

So...if you have a blog where you keep track of your progress, leave a comment here with your blog url and I'll add it to a new sidebar list.

Made this baby last night:

B-1 (2 pieces, 55 minutes)

I put two new progress charts in the sidebar.

One for Rainbow Jane and one for 30's Jane.

30's Jane!

2011-02-25T07:37:00.000-08:00

I'm making slow progress on 30's Jane.
It's fun.
I do love these fabrics.
I've decided that this time I'm going to keep track of the number of pieces as well as how long it takes me to make each block.

So far:

A-1 (28 pieces, 50 minutes)

A-2 (40 pieces,60 minutes)

A-3 (9 pieces, 105 minutes)

If you'd like to join the Block-of-the-Month or Fabric-of-the-Month, there is still time. We'll start on the 2nd Monday of March.

Call me crazy

2011-02-21T10:05:00.000-08:00

I just couldn't help myself.

You try and spend every day surrounded by 30's fabric and kits and resist.
If you'd like to join in on the craziness, I have both a BOM and Fabric-of-the-Month starting in March over in the store (sorry about the shameless plug).
I'm going to follow the sequence of the BOM in making the blocks, but I don't think I'll make the triangles this time round.

I've created a Flickr set just for this quilt over in my photostream.
I will, of course, also share pertinent photos in the "That Quilt" group.

My plan is to start the quilting on my original quilt (the one that started it all) soon. The plan is to quilt each block individually, so that could be another 2-year journey. I will share over here, so stay tuned.

The Block Box is Empty

2011-01-28T08:34:00.000-08:00

Filling in the gaps

2011-01-27T07:04:00.000-08:00

Now that we have the corners on, it's time to fill in with the rest of the triangles.

Once again, I prefer the "chunky" assembly method. I sewed a plain triangle to each pieced triangle first.

And then attached them all to each other.

After that, we can sew the strips to the corners. Remember how you only sewed about 2" into the second triangle when attaching the corner sections? That was so that you could attach the "inbetween" triangles more easily.

Now you should have this:

And, once again, I marked those little seam points.

Stay tuned for another "ta-da!" moment.

Triangle Wrangling

2011-01-26T07:53:00.000-08:00

So now your quilt center is all assembled because I inspired you and you hopped right to it. Right?

You're ready to attach the triangle border. The quilt top weighs about 3lbs. The corners have set in seams with 27 triangles between each two corners.
And you have to line up each triangle with the sashing between the blocks.
Scared yet?

You could make a border "frame" and then attach it to the quilt center.
I tried to imagine maneuvering that under the sewing machine and knew I'd have to come up with something easier.

Here's what I did.

First, you have to cut 56 setting tri's. You can cut them in batches. That's my plan. My attention span is just too short to cut 56 triangles in one sitting. Mark the seams just like you did with the blocks.

Pick one corner kite, two blocks on either side, and six setting tri's and assemble them into a corner unit as below. The markings on the triangles (see my previous post) will help you with accurate assembly.

Repeat this for all four corners.

Next, mark seam positions on the quilt top. If you're using a disappearing marker like me, just mark the corner and two blocks out each way because marking more will just disappear overnight. (Yes, the one marking is in the wrong spot. I fixed it after I took the photo.)

Now attach those little corner sections to the quilt top, sewing the seam only about two inches into the second triangle. Once again, all those little marks will make lining everything up a breeze.

Make sense?

Today I hope to finish the triangle border. Stay tuned.

(If you're interested, I have a couple of disappearing markers over here. Just email me and I'll give you the details.)

Accuracy is key

2011-01-25T01:17:00.000-08:00

While a little bit of fudging on block sizes was OK, when attaching the triangles, accuracy is far more important.
I marked the seam intersections on each corner with a disappearing marker, making it easier to line up the blocks correctly when making the triangle border.

Whoo-hoo!

2011-01-24T09:28:00.001-08:00

I spent the WHOLE day yesterday working on Jane.

Can you see that I've even started attaching the triangles?

(For those with questions: After you've assembled the top, you have to add a 1/4" (yes 1/4"!) border all the way around or the triangle border will not fit.)

Remake

2011-01-23T11:21:00.000-08:00

It's funny how time "heals all wounds". Most of the blocks I was sure I was going to remake now look OK. Finished is better than perfect, right?

This one, however, stuck out like a sore thumb, color-wise:

Since I'm trying to complete the top assembly today, I had to quickly make a substitute.

I used my own instructions. They work quite well, if I must say so myself.

Inspiration!

2011-01-21T07:46:00.000-08:00

I have made a little bit of progress on my quilt top since the last post.

This, however, has made me determined to finish it this weekend.

Robin of Crafty Musings has finished the center of her quilt top. She's moving on the the triangles.
Isn't the green absolutely stunning?
She's been doing blog posts about her blocks all through this process. You can see them on her blog.
Did I mention that she hand pieced all these little blocks?

Congratulations Robin!

Chunky Assembly

2011-01-04T08:19:00.000-08:00

Can you tell I'm really inspired to finish this?

I've had a couple of questions about my assembly method, so I thought I'd explain how I'm doing it.

The first way that came to mind was, of course, to sew the blocks into rows and then sew the rows together.
I did not relish the thought of having to sew 13 very long rows together, so I devised the "chunky" plan.
I'm sewing the blocks together in sections of 4 or 5 wide by 3 or 4 high.
I then assemble these sections into a wider "row".
In the end I will have only 3 long seams to sew. Woohoo!

The "chunk" on the left consists of blocks H-1 to J-5.
The chunk on the right will be H-6 to J9, which I will then attach to the first one.
The last chunk for this section will be H-10 to J-13.
So, when I'm done with this "row", it will have H-1 (at the top left) to J-13(at the bottom right) and I can sew this to the 13-block-wide section above it. You can see that in yesterday's post.

Does that make any sense?

Progress!

2011-01-03T10:33:00.000-08:00

Jane and I spent a little bit of quality time together this weekend.

I have new incentive to finish her and her sister Rainbow.
I'm a crazy nutcase, but since I've put 30's Jane up in the store, I haven't been able to keep myself from dreaming about her. Is there such a thing as a Jane-o-holic?

I am, however, not allowing myself the indulgence until Jane and Rainbow are D-O-N-E.

Rainbow Jane is back!

2010-12-09T07:49:00.000-08:00

I haven't had much time to work on my quilt lately. I truly hope the New Year will bring better organization and therefore more sewing time.

In the mean time I have an announcement to make.

I've had SO many requests for another run of the Rainbow Jane Block of the Month that I've decided to run another session.

If you or a friend are interested, you can find more details over here in the store.

30's Jane is also in the works.

Stay tuned.

TR-11

2010-10-22T04:52:00.000-07:00

Number 225! Woohoo!

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as below.
You have to mirror the diagram!

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the unnumbered sections out of the appropriate fabric. Remember to add the 1/4" seam allowance here as well.

Assemble the block following the photos below.

Applique the small top kite into position.

TR-7

2010-10-20T04:28:00.000-07:00

The second to last block!
What am I going to do with my time when this quilt is finished?

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections as below.

Foundation piece each section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the sections as below. Keep the small semi-circles you cut out from the bottom of the sections.
Because I use freezer paper to foundation piece, I just reused those sections. You don't have to number them.
Iron the freezer paper sections to the right side of the matching pieced sections, lining up the seam lines. Cut along the curved edge, leaving a small seam allowance for turning under. Clip the seam allowance along the curve.
Cut two squares about 3" x 3" out of main block fabric and lay them right side up on the table.
Place the pieced sections right side up on top of them and baste along the bottom curve about 1/4" inside the freezer paper edge.

Reverse applique along the curved edge.

Iron the little freezer paper semi-circles into place and trim the block sections to size along the bottom edge(1/4" outside the freezer paper edges). Cut away the excess fabric from the back of the block sections.
Cut the non-pieced block sections out of appropriate fabric, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance.

Sew the three bottom block sections together.

Attach the next section. Yes, inset seams are required.

Attach the small pieced section. When the angle is this sharp, I sew one seam by machine and applique the other edge. Sounds weird, I know, but it helps me avoid stretching the fabric by trying to manipulate it under the sewing machine foot.

Print/trace the section below onto the dull side of freezer paper, cut out and iron into position on the right side of the block. Cut out the inside of the kite, leaving a seam allowance for turning under.

Cut a 4" x 4" square out of background fabric and lay it right side up on the table. Place the block right side up on top and baste through all layers.

Reverse applique, turning the seam allowances under. Remove the freezer paper and basting and trim away the excess fabric from the back.

Sew the two side strips to the block and finally attach the top triangle.

BRC

2010-10-18T08:02:00.000-07:00

The bottom right corner. The last corner.

This is what I did. I'm sure there are other methods out there. Please share if you have a better idea.

Print or trace the block diagram onto paper. It's 8" x 8" if you were wondering.
Cut a piece of background fabric large enough for the block plus seam allowances.
Trace the positions of the star and lemons, as well as the seam lines onto the fabric using a disappearing or washable marker. I have a wonderful little light table which I can't live without but a bright window will work as well.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper. Actually if you're tracing you can just trace the star.
Connect the corners as below, cut out, and number.

Cut out the sections.

Foundation piece each section.
Trim the seam allowances where the sections will be attached to 1/4". Leave the outer seam allowances larger. This will make it easier to secure in the next steps.

Sew the sections together to form the star shape.

Lay the star right side up on the light table or against the window. Place the background fabric with the markings right side up on top of it. Line up the outside border of the pieced star with the markings on the background fabric. I completed the borders of the star on the background fabric to make this easier.
Baste through all layers. Do not baste too close to the star. You want to be able to turn the seam allowances under.

Reverse applique along the star borders. I cut the center out as I went along because the shape is so little and I wanted as little fraying as possible.
If you want a little more detail on reverse applique, have a look at block B-1.

Applique the melons onto the block.

Cut out the block 1/4" outside the marked seam lines.

The star is a little chunky and the corners not perfect but I gave up on complete perfection about 200 blocks ago.

RS-5

2010-10-16T14:23:00.000-07:00

The last right side triangle!

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece each numbered section and cut the unnumbered section out of main block fabric. Trim all seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew together the top two and center three sections as below.

Sew the top and center sections together.

Attach the bottom pieced section,

Attach the non-pieced section.

Using your favorite applique method, applique the melon onto the block.

TLC - Top Left Corner

2010-10-14T01:05:00.000-07:00

The top left corner. Corners are 8" x 8" finished.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the hexagons.

Iron nine of the hexagons to the wrong side of main block fabric and trim all the seam allowances to exactly 1/4".

Fold all seam allowances over to the wrong side and secure with a couple machine stitches. Do not use too many stitches. You are going to have to undo these at the end.

Sew the hexagons together in groups of three.

Sew these groups together.

Cut a 6" x 6" square out of background fabric and baste the hexagon section to the right side of the square.

Applique along all the folded edges. Remove the basting stitches, machine stitches, and freezer paper. Trim the square to 5 1/8" x 5 1/8".

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the section below.

Foundation piece and trim seam allowances to 1/4". Cut the remaining section out of background fabric. Remember to add 1/4" seam allowances.

Sew the non-pieced section to the bottom of the main block section.

Sew the pieced section to the side.

Out of background fabric, cut two strips 7/8" x 7".

Referring to the block diagram, attach the strips to two of the block's sides.

I found the easiest way to do this is to attach each strip and then trim it to size on both ends.

Applique the remaining hexagon onto the block.

RS-3

2010-10-12T05:24:00.000-07:00

5 blocks to go!!!

Cut two 2.5" x 2.5" squares out of main block fabric.
Cut two 2.5" x 2.5" squares out of background fabric.
Draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the wrong side of two of the squares.

Sew squares together in pairs 1/4" from the diagonal lines on each side.

Cut apart on the drawn lines and press open.
Lay out as below and sew together to form a pinwheel. (I forgot to take a photo of the actual pinwheel.)

Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper and number as below. The center will be sewn as one piece.

Foundation piece as below. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4"

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the shapes as in the photo.

Iron the melon shapes onto the right side of your main block fabric and cut out. Leave about 3/8" seam allowance along one curved edge and at least 1/2" at the bottom and sides. I left at least an inch.

Iron the center freezer paper shape to the right side of the pinwheel you constructed earlier, lining up the seam lines.

Place one of the melon sections right side up on the pinwheel, aligning the curved edges on both freezer paper cutouts. A light table or bright window will be very helpful when doing this. Baste through all layers.

Applique along the curved edge, turning under the seam allowance. Remove the freezer paper melon and press.

Repeat for the other three melons.

Applique the small triangle to the foundation pieced block section. Note that you only have to applique the sides of the triangle. The bottom will be in the seam allowance.

Trace the center circle onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out, leaving a "frame" of at least 1/4" all around.
Iron the freezer paper into position on the right side of the block and cut out, leaving a seam allowance for turning under.

Place the appliqued block section right side up on the table. Carefully position the block over it. Baste through all layers.

Clip the curved edge every 1/4" to 1/2". Applique along the curved edge.

Remove the freezer paper, press, and trim away the excess fabric from the back of the block.

Applique the three kites onto the block.

Cut a 7/8" by 6" strip of main block fabric and sew it to the bottom of the block. Trim to size.

BLC - Bottom Left Corner

2010-10-10T05:59:00.000-07:00

Don't be scared. This is actually a very simple block.
Once again, I made this in the dead of night, so the photos are a little iffy.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections as below. Click on the photo to see a larger version if you have trouble reading the numbers.
(If you're printing from the software you have to change the block size to 8" x 8".)

Foundation piece all the numbered sections. Also cut the two triangular side sections out of background fabric as below. Trim all seam allowances to 1/4".
Cut two 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" squares out of background fabric and cut each in half on the diagonal.

Print or trace the top right block section (see below) onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out as in the photo.

Cut a 4" x 4" square out of background fabric and iron the small freezer paper to the right side of the fabric.
Cut out an approximately 3/8" seam allowance along the inside edge. Clip the sharp corner.

Important! Make sure you leave enough fabric for the square section plus seam allowances in the fabric. Lay the square section into position and check that there's enough overlap. I did not leave enough in the photos below and had to redo the whole section. (Hope this makes sense.)

Cut a 4" x 4" square out of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table. Place the background fabric section right side up on top of it and baste through all layers at least 1/4" from the freezer paper edge.

Applique along the inner edge.

Place the remaining freezer paper section into position on top of the block section and iron into place.
Trim the block section to size (1/4" outside the edge of the freezer paper).
(This is my remade section. See how much more background fabric is showing?)

Remove the freezer paper and basting stitches.

Now, breathe deeply...

I assembled the block starting from the center and working outwards.

The photos should be very helpful here. It's hard to describe in words.

First make the teenie center star.

Then add the next two sections to form the sides of the outer star.

Sew on the top and bottom sections to complete the outer star.

Sew the next two pieced sections to the sides of the block as below.

Attach the remaining two similar sections to the top and bottom.

Sew a background fabric triangle (you cut these at the beginning, remember?) to three sides of the block. You can discard the fourth one.

Sew one of the two uneven background fabric triangles to one side of the block. See the second photo at from the top if you can't remember which these were. Referring to this photo should help with most of the following steps.

Sew two block sections together to form the section shown below.

Attach this section to the block.

Lay out the pieced sections shown below.

Sew them together.

Attach the resulting section to the top of the block.

Cut two 1" x 6.5" strips out of background fabric.

Referring to the block diagram, attach one to the bottom and then one to the left side of the block.

I attached each with edges extending on both sides and then trimmed them down.

And there you go! The second corner!

LS-8

2010-10-08T05:43:00.000-07:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as below. Important! You have to mirror the diagram if you want it exactly as in the diagram.

Following the numbers, foundation piece all block sections and trim the seam allowances to exactly 1/4".

Sew the two bottom sections together. Refer to the photo below for seam starting and ending positions.

Press open.

Cut a 3" x 3" square out of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table. Place the block section you just created right side up on top of it, making sure that the triangular opening covers the main fabric square completely.
Baste all layers together. Baste far enough from the fabric edges to leave room for the seam allowance to be turned under.

Turning under the seam allowances, applique the small triangle. Cut the excess main block fabric from the back of the block.

Sew the top block section onto the bottom section.

I forgot to take photos over here...

Turn the raw edges of the center triangle under and applique just as you did with the bottom section.

Mark the positions of the remaining shapes on the block with a washable or disappearing marker and applique the shapes into position.

Caution! Quilt Assembly in Progress

2010-10-07T05:14:00.000-07:00

I have so many other things to do, but I just can't stop. This is REALLY exciting!

LS-7

2010-10-06T05:18:00.000-07:00

I'm making blocks at night now so the photos may not be of the best quality. I apologize for this. I'm trying really hard to get all the blocks done ASAP.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections as below. Note that I extended a seam line in the top section to allow for it to be pieced rather than appliqued.

Following the numbers, foundation piece each section and trim all seam allowances to 1/4".

Print or trace the center block section (see below) onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out as in the photo.
Cut a 5" x 6" square out of background fabric and iron the freezer paper to the right side of the fabric.
Cut out the center shape leaving a seam allowance to turn under when you applique.
Clip the seams on the inside curves.

Cut a 5" x 6" square out of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table. Place the background fabric section right side up on top of it. Baste through all layers.

Turning the seam allowance under, applique along the inner edges of the inner shape.

Trim the section to size (1/4" outside the freezer paper edges), remove the basting and freezer paper.

Sew the four block sections together.

Using your preferred applique method, applique the two melons onto the block.

K-6

2010-10-04T01:11:00.000-07:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece all sections and trim seam allowances to 1/4"

Sew together the two center sections.

Sew together the three sections making up the block center.

Attach the side sections.

Finally attach the top and bottom sections.

This block is not as wonky as it looks. It just wouldn't lay flat for a photo.

K-5

2010-10-02T01:44:00.000-07:00

On a roll now...

Print or trace the block diagram into the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the sections as in the photo below.
Cut two squares 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" out of background fabric.

Iron the freezer paper sections to the right side of the background fabric squares and cut out the inside of the kites, leaving a seam allowance for turning under.

Cut a 1 1/2" wide by 15" long strip out of main block fabric.
Cut a 1 1/2" wide by 15" long strip out of background fabric.
Using these strips cut four 60 degree parallelograms about 2" long out of each strip. I think most rulers have 60 degree markings.
Refer to the block diagram to make sure your sides angle in the right direction.

Make two "four patches" out of the shapes. Make sure to check the block diagram. I made my first set incorrectly.

Lay the background fabric block sections right side up on top of the "four patches", centering them carefully. A window or lightbox is really handy.

Baste through all layers. Clip the sharp inside corners.

Reverse applique the kite shapes.

Trim the block sections to 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" each. If you trim 1/4" outside the freezer paper edges, you'll have the correct size square.
Remove the freezer paper and cut away the excess fabric from the back of each section.
Out of main block fabric cut two squares 2 3/4" x 2 3/4".

Sew the four sections into a four patch block.

L-12

2010-09-30T06:16:00.000-07:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as below.

Foundation piece each numbered section. Note that I had to rearrange the sections a little to resemble the block diagram. If I'd wanted it simpler I should have mirrored the diagram but this worked as well. Just make sure to refer to the block diagram when you lay out your sections.
Out of background fabric, cut
two rectangles 1 1/4" x 3 1/2"
two rectangles 1 1/4" x 5"

Sew the three center sections together.

Sew the three rectangular pieced center sections together.

Attach the shorter background fabric rectangles to the sides and the longer ones to the top and bottom of the center section.

Applique the four small triangles into position. My applique techniques still leave a lot to be desired, that's for sure.

J-5

2010-09-28T05:53:00.000-07:00

Before I start this post I want to repeat something I have said before.

The instructions I post on this blog reflect the way I made my blocks. This is probably not the only method you can use to make your block. Just what worked for me.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the small center section as below.

If you use freezer paper to foundation piece, like I do, cut it out carefully and keep the rest of the diagram intact.

Following the numbers, foundation piece the section. Trim the seam allowances to 1/2". I trimmed mine to 1/4" but this made it a little harder later on. Note that I did not trim the section according to the diagram, just straight across.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the sections as below.
Iron the sections onto the wrong side of the appropriate fabrics and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew a smaller block section to a larger section as below, lining it up carefully. Note that I did not sew into the seam allowances on either end of the seam.

Press open, pressing the seam allowance toward the LARGER block section. (I know that is not what it looks like below.)

Repeat for all the remaining sections.

You now have a "frame" for your block.

Turn all the inner seam allowances under 1/4" and baste. The freezer paper on the wrong side of the fabric will give you a hard edge making it easier. Baste through the freezer paper.

Place the small block section you made at the beginning right side up on the table. Place the larger section right side up on top of it, lining it up carefully according to the block diagram.
Baste through all layers.

Applique along the inner edge.
Remove the basting and freezer paper.

BR-10

2010-09-26T12:08:00.000-07:00

I'm very determined to finish all the blocks ASAP.

So far, so good...

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as below.

Important: You have to mirror this diagram.

Foundation piece each numbered section and trim all seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the two center sections as well as the top right sections together as in the photo.

Sew the three top sections together.

Sew the three resulting block sections together.

I-13

2010-09-25T20:52:00.000-07:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, cut out, and number as below.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Out of main block fabric, cut two rectangles 7/8" x 2 7/8".

Sew the three center sections together.

Attach the two main fabric rectangles to opposing sides of the center section.

Sew on the two rectangular pieced sections.

Sew two of the remaining pieced triangles to opposing sides of the center.

Finally, attach the remaining two triangular sections.

L-10

2010-09-06T09:45:00.000-07:00

Block number 210!

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo. Note that two of the small triangles in each side section are not numbered and won't be included at this point. (See the second photo)

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the smaller sections together as in the photo below.

Attach the top and bottom sections.

Sew the resulting sections to the center pieced section. Yes, you'll have to use inset seams. I found that in this case the easiest way was to sew the center straight seam first and then the two angular seams.

Attach the side sections.

Trace or print the smaller triangles onto foundation paper in sections as below. Number as in the photo. I placed them on the block to help you see which triangles I was referring to.

foundation piece the small sections and trim the seam allowances. I trimmed the edge to1/4" but then later trimmed them down to allow for easier turning under when appliqueing.

Applique the sections into position on the block along the three sides that do not align with the block edge.
I love this block even though my applique leaves a bit to be desired.

M-6

2010-08-24T20:32:00.000-07:00

Yes, I'm still plugging along albeit a little more slowly than I'd like.

Print or trace the block onto foundation paper and modify the diagram as below.

Cut out and number the sections as in the photo.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the three center sections together.

Print or trace the center block section onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the center hexagon.
Carefully iron this in place on the right side of the block section you just constructed, lining up the seam lines with the corners of the hexagon.
Cut the hexagon out of the fabric leaving a small seam allowance for turning under.

Cut a 4" x 4" section of background fabric and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block section right side up on top of it.
Baste through all layers at least 1/4" from the freezer paper hexagon edge.

Turning under the seam allowance, reverse applique the hexagon.

Remove the freezer paper and trim away the excess background fabric.

Referring to the block diagram attach the remaining pieced sections. Attach the two smallest sections first and then the larger sections.

BR-7

2010-08-01T11:38:00.000-07:00

This one was hard. I changed methods in the middle of it so I'm not sure I've captured every step in the photos.
Be sure to read the instructions too.
Here goes.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece each section. Trim the seam allowances on the sections below to 1/4".

Referring to the block diagram, complete the top and bottom block sections.

Print or trace the block sections below onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out.
Because I use freezer paper to foundation piece I just re-used the freezer paper I'd used for the piecing.
Iron the freezer paper to the right side of the corresponding pieced sections, lining up the seam lines.
Trim the inner seam allowances to 1/4".

Cut a 4" x 4" section out of main block fabric.
Baste one of the block sections to the right side of the fabric. Leave enough fabric around the section to be able to attach the other section and have seam allowances on all sides.

Turning under the seam allowance, applique the inner edge of the section.

Baste the opposite section into position on the main fabric section and applique the inner edge.

Trim the top seam allowance to 1/4" and attach the top block section to this section.

Here's where it gets a little tricky.
Mark the lines where the bottom block section would attach to the center section on the right side of the section you just made (the one with the applique).
Place the bottom section right sides together with the center section, lining up the seam lines as in the photo below. Sew the bottom section to this section along one side.

Fold the bottom section over and pin or baste into place along the other diagonal seam line, tucking in the seam allowance.

Applique.

Trim all the seam allowances to 1/4".

If some if this doesn't make sense, please feel free to email me or ask questions in the comments.

H-5

2010-07-29T06:08:00.000-07:00

I think I'm on a little roll here...

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo below.

Foundation piece each section. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew together the two center block sections.

Attach the side sections.

H-4

2010-07-27T14:03:00.000-07:00

Getting there...

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo. Note that I extended the center diagonal line all the way across.

Foundation piece the two block sections. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the two sections together.

Applique the kite into position. I prefer "freezer paper inside" for kites.

G-13

2010-07-23T13:09:00.000-07:00

Another easy one.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the four sections that have a curved edge.
Out of background fabric, cut 4 squares 2.5" x 2.5"
Iron a freezer paper shape to the right side of the fabric, in the center of each background square.

Cut out the curved edge, leaving a scant 1/4" seam allowance. Clip the inside curve.
Out of main block fabric, cut 4 squares 2.5" x 2.5".
Lay the main fabric squares right side up on the table. Lay the background fabric sections right side up on top of them.
Baste through all layers, staying far enough from the freezer paper edge to allow for the seam allowance to be turned under.

Reverse applique each curve.

Trim the squares to size 1/4" away from the freezer paper edge on all sides. They should be 2" x 2".
Remove the freezer paper and trim away the excess main block fabric from the back of each section.
Out of main block fabric, cut 5 squares 2" x 2".
Lay the block sections out as below.

Sew the sections together in sets of three, resulting in three rectangular block sections.

Sew these sections together.

Yes I am...

2010-07-18T08:45:00.000-07:00

...going to to finish this quilt and blog about it.

Right now I'm working eight hour days and taking two college classes (and trying to run a store) so time is a little tight. I'm planning to do something about the eight hour days soon. I will definitely be posting a block or two this coming week.

I'm afraid this little Jane will not be finished by the end of the summer though. Maybe by the end of the year...

M-3

2010-07-07T18:45:00.000-07:00

I wanted to name this post "Woo-hoo!" but since I have a naming convention...
I finished "the block". The hard one. The one I simply could not figure out.
What follows is what I did and not necessarily the best method.

One thing I know: try to sew as accurately as possible. Even the teeniest misstep can result in big problems.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections as below.

If you're using freezer paper for foundation piecing keep the "frame" part of the block diagram intact, else trace or print the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the "frame".

Foundation piece the three sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Don't worry about the sharp points of the sections. They aren't going to show.

Sew the three sections together.

Mark the four kite sections on main block fabric. NOTE that they're not symmetrical. Take note of which side will face the center of the block.
Cut the kite sections out only along the two seams that face toward the center of the block. Leave ample fabric on the other sides (at least 1/2" beyond the seam lines of the kite).
Sew the four sections into the appropriate areas on the block.
Sew only the two "inside" seams.
Yes, you will have to use set in seams. (Sorry.)

Cut four 4" squares out of background fabric.
Use these to make four half square triangles.
Sew them together as if you're making a pinwheel.

Iron the freezer paper frame you made in the beginning to the right side of the block, lining up the seam lines.
Cut out the center section, leaving a scant 1/4" seam allowances. Clip the inside corners. (Actually you can just unpick the seams up to the freezer paper edge.)
Place the foundation pieced block section right side up on the table.
Place the "frame" section right side up on top of it, carefully centering it.
Baste through all layers at least 1/4" away from the freezer paper frame edge.

Turning under the seam allowances, reverse applique the "frame" to the block center.

Trim the block to 5" x 5", i.e. 1/4" beyond the freezer paper edge on all sides. Remove the freezer paper.

Cut away any excess fabric from the back of the block.

Press.

Woo-hoo!

G-11

2010-07-01T17:48:00.000-07:00

Two blocks in one week!
And we can now officially say we're 90% done with the blocks.

Out of background fabric, cut:
two pieces 1 3/4” x 2 1/2”
one piece 2 1/2” x 3 1/2”

Out of main block fabric, cut:
two pieces 1 3/4” x 3 1/2”
one piece 2 1/2” x 2 1/2”

Sew the three 3 1/2” long pieces together.
Sew the three 2 1/2” long pieces together.

Cut the larger pieced section into two 1 3/4” wide sections.

Sew the three pieced sections together.

Using the applique method you prefer, applique the four kites onto the block.
I used "freezer paper inside".

F-11

2010-06-29T12:21:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I spent two hours making a block we've already made.
It felt familiar the whole time but because I'm making two quilts concurrently I thought it was just because if that. Darn.

Anyhow, here's a block we haven't made.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece the two block sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the sections together.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the corner sections and small pie shapes. Keep the sections you cut out.
Iron the freezer paper to the right side of the block, lining up the seam lines.
Cut the small pie shapes out of the fabric, leaving a seam allowance to turn under.
Cut a 6" x 6" square out of background fabric and place it right side up of the table. Position the block right side up on top of it. Baste through all layers to secure the pie shapes. Leave room for the seam allowance to be turned under when you applique. Clip the inside corners and curves.

Turning under the seam allowances, applique the pie shapes.
Cut away the extra background fabric from the back of the block.

Out of background fabric, cut four squares 2.5" x 2.5".
Applique the quarter circle corner shapes onto each of them using the applique method you prefer. Make sure to leave enough background fabric around the curved edges. I recommend at least 1" to make sure you have fabric to trim off when you're done. If this doesn't make sense just keep reading and you'll hopefully understand.
I used "freezer paper on top" applique, which is shown in the photos below.

Cut out the small curved sections from the freezer paper sections you saved earlier and iron them into place on the right side of the appliqued squares. (They may be a little wonky which is why it was a good idea to leave that 1" extra.)

Cut the corners out of the fabric on the main block, leaving seam allowances to be turned under.
Place an appliqued square right side up on the table. Lay the block right side up on top of it, using the freezer paper on both sections to line them up. (Remember that the seam allowance on the main block will extend past the actual edge of the block so you'll have to peek under there to line up the two freezer paper edges.)
Baste through all layers.

Applique.
Repeat for the other three block corners.

Trim the block to 5" square, using the freezer paper edges as a guide.

Remove all the freezer paper, trim the excess fabric from the back, and press.

And that will do it for row F, which means we now have the first 6 rows completed.

F-9

2010-06-22T13:20:00.000-07:00

Finally! I have a block made. I'm never going to make my goal if I don't speed up this progress.

Cut a 6" x 6" square out of background fabric and cut it in half on the diagonal twice.

Sew the triangles together in pairs.

Sew the two resulting pieced triangles together.
(Press all seams open.)

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out as in the photo.
Iron the freezer paper template to the right side of the background fabric block section, centering it carefully and matching up the seam lines.
Cut out the center shape leaving a seam allowance.
Out of main block fabric, cut a 4" x 4" square. Lay the square right side up on the table and place the background fabric section right side up on top of it, centering it carefully.
Baste through all layers, far enough from the freezer paper edge to allow for the seam allowance to be turned under.

Applique. Because you pressed the seams open you should be able to undo the corner seams just a little and they will fold back to the wrong side easily.

Remove the freezer paper and press.

Mark the positions of the melons on the block and, using your favorite applique method, applique them in place on the block.
I used "freezer paper inside".
Trim the block to 5" x 5".

I'll be back soon!

2010-06-22T10:33:00.000-07:00

I've been receiving concerned emails about the blog and the instructions.
Life is really hectic (actually upside down) right now but I have one block almost done.
I'm planning to post it today.
I'm not disappearing, I promise.

Answering your questions

2010-06-11T07:20:00.000-07:00

I get a lot of questions in the comment section of posts.

Most of these comments do not have email addresses connected to them, leaving me unable to answer them.

I love answering quilters' questions so if you have one, please E-MAIL me and I promise I will respond. (My e-mail address is in the sidebar.)

BTW, who's up to date and has 200 blocks completed?

Just wondering...

And because no post can be without a photo, this little Valentine's Dear Jane by Trisha.

TR-6

2010-06-10T10:15:00.000-07:00

Yes, another triangle. Block number 200!

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece each numbered section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4". Note that the top kite and melon are not pieced.

Sew the three center sections together.

Attach the top and bottom sections.

Print or trace the top block section onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the kite and melon shapes.
Iron this template to the right side of the block, lining up the seam lines.
Cut the melon and kite out of the fabric, leaving a small seam allowance. Clip the sharp corners and inside curves.
Cut a 3" x 3.5" rectangle out of main block fabric and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block right side up on top of it.
Baste through all layers.

Turning under the seam allowances, reverse applique the kite and melon.

Trim the block to size, using the freezer paper as a guide.
Remove the freezer paper and press.

RS-13

2010-06-06T11:11:00.000-07:00

Easy.

Print or trace the block pattern onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece the numbered sections. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Note that we didn't piece the small triangles at the bottom of the block.

Sew together the two center sections of the block.

Attach the remaining two sections.

Print or trace the bottom block section onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out as below.
Iron the freezer paper into position on the right side of the block, lining up the seam lines. Cut out the small triangles, leaving a small seam allowance. Clip the inside corners.
Out of main block fabric, cut a rectangle about 6" x 4" and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block right side up on top of it.
Baste through all layers. Do not baste too close the the edges of the triangles because you want to be able to turn under the seam allowance in the next step.

Turning under the seam allowance, reverse applique the small triangles.
Trim to size, remove the freezer paper, and cut away the excess fabric from the back of the block.
Press.

M-4

2010-05-31T13:03:00.000-07:00

This one turned out a little wonky but almost 200 blocks in I've realized that remaking all the wonky ones would be an impossible task. Wonky it is.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Cut the unnumbered sections out of main block fabric. Don't forget the seam allowances.
Out of background fabric, cut 2 squares 2" x 2" and cut each in half on the diagonal.

Sew the center pieced sections together in three rows.

Sew these rows together to form the block center.

Attach the non-pieced main fabric sections.

Finally sew on the four corner triangles.

BR-9

2010-05-26T12:07:00.000-07:00

So far, so good on the road to quilt completion.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Important! You have to mirror this diagram.

Foundation piece each section.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/2". The extra bit is important because sections tend to shrink a bit during applique.
Mark the seam lines (or at least the corners) onto the right side of your block sections. The easiest way to do this is before you remove the foundation paper. Use a window or light table and you should be able to see the markings through the fabric.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the curved sections as below. Keep the sections you cut out. You will use them again later.
Iron the freezer paper shapes onto the right side of your background fabric and cut out along the curves, leaving a seam allowance for turning under.
Clip into the seam allowance along the curves every 1/4" or so.
Position the background fabric sections onto the pieced sections. The seam markings you made earlier will help you line them up.
Baste through all layers. Don't baste too close to the curves. You need to be able to turn under the seam allowances when you applique.

Applique along all the curved edges.

Iron the freezer paper sections you kept earlier back into position.

Trim the sections to size, 1/4" outside the freezer paper edges.

Remove the freezer paper, trim the excess fabric from the back of the block sections, and press.

Sew the block sections together. Check the alignment after each seam or your block could turn out very wonky.

Setting a goal

2010-05-24T14:47:00.000-07:00

It's time to kick it up a notch.

These are the blocks I have left.

29 of them.

The plan is to have them all done by Labor Day. That's September 6th, 2010.

Are you in?

LS-1

2010-05-23T13:37:00.000-07:00

I'm going to have to pick up the pace a bit if I want to finish all the blocks by the end of summer.

I struggled with this one a little this morning although I've actually made it before.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper.
Cut out and number the top section as in the photo.

Foundation piece, following the numbers. Foundation piece the bottom two sections using one piece of fabric to reduce seam bulk.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Cut out and number the two side block sections.

Foundation piece. Trim seam allowances to 1/4".

Cut out and number the remaining block section as below.

Foundation piece and trim seam allowances to 1/4". Extend the side edges until they meet at the top of the section (as in the photo).

Here I forgot to take a photo.
Sew the two side sections to the center section.
Sew the top section to the block along the bottom diagonal seams.

Applique the final shape to the block.

L-11

2010-05-18T09:13:00.000-07:00

An easy one.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections as in the photo. Note that the corner triangles are not included here.

Foundation piece each section and trim seam allowances to 1/4".
Out of background fabric, cut two squares 2 1/8" x 2 1/8" and cut each in half on the diagonal.

Sew the four pieced strips to the center section.

Attach the four background fabric triangles.

F-8

2010-05-13T17:05:00.000-07:00

You have to mirror this diagram.
I didn't.
But I'm not remaking the block.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo. You have to mirror the diagram.

Foundation piece each section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew together the three center sections.

Attach the side sections.

Add the top and bottom sections.

Finally attach the long sides.

J-12

2010-05-05T12:24:00.000-07:00

Two posts in one week! It's a veritable miracle!

I'm going to show you the method for appliqueing stems that I learned in Houston. I'm a little rusty but trust me, you can make REALLY skinny stems using this method. I amended it a little.
The markings on the fabric do not show well in the photos. I hope you can see them. And I'm left handed, so everything will probably seem the wrong way round.
But I think you'll get the idea.

First, we'll do the foundation pieced part.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the bottom two sections as in the photo.

Foundation piece these sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Now, we'll applique the basket handle. This is my way. You are, of course, totally free to use whatever works for you.
Cut a 4" x 6" rectangle out of background fabric and mark the outlines of the handle, as well as the four corners of the block section onto the right side.

Cut a 1.5" wide strip about 10" long out of main block fabric ON THE DIAGONAL.

On the right side of the fabric and using a disappearing or washable marker (the lady in Houston just used a regular pencil) draw two lines 3/8" (the width of the handle) apart in the center of the fabric strip.

Finger press along these two lines toward the wrong side of the fabric.

We're going to applique the inside edge first. Lay the fabric strip onto the background fabric rectangle so that the main fabric strip extends beyond the end of the handle markings by about 1/4" (into the seam allowance). This will allow the edges to be caught in the seam when you sew the sections together. You can pin it into place over here if you'd like but I just held it.

Start appliqueing along the inside edge, lining up the edge of the handle strip with the marking on the background fabric.

You'll notice that your seam allowance is way too wide but don't worry about that.
Applique along the entire inside edge and finish off.

Now carefully trim the seam allowance to about 1/8" from the stitching.

Trim the seam allowance on the opposite side to about 1/4" outside the finger pressed line. You can trim it a little narrower or wider too. Just make sure the seam allowance is smaller than the width of the applique, in this case 3/8".

Once again lining up the turned fabric edge with the markings on the background fabric, applique the other side of the basket handle.

Press and trim the block section to size. You should trim 1/4" outside the seam line markings you made on the background fabric.
You will now have all three block sections.

Sew the three block sections together.

TR-1

2010-05-03T14:01:00.000-07:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece each section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Cut the bottom section out of main block fabric, remembering to add 1/4" seam allowance here as well.

Sew the block sections together in sets of two. (see photo)

Sew the resulting 3 block sections together.

Finally attach the bottom block section.

K-3

2010-04-26T15:09:00.000-07:00

Jane and I have been seriously at odds with each other the last couple of weeks and this block is a testament to that. Isn't foundation piecing supposed to be accurate?
I'll probably redo it when we make up...
I couldn't even bring myself to put the photo up on Flickr.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections as in the photo.
(Did you notice? My printer ran out of ink just as I was about to print the diagram.)

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Out of background fabric, cut:
one rectangle 1" x 5"
two rectangles 1" x 4.5"
one rectangle 1" x 4"

Sew the three center block sections together.

Attach the top and bottom sections.

Sew on the remaining two pieced sections.

Referring to the block diagram, attach the solid rectangles to the block log cabin style.

A sad looking block.

LS-13

2010-04-21T08:02:00.000-07:00

I'm not happy with this block, but it's only the applique, not the piecing.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece each section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the block sections together.

Applique the melons into place.
This is where I'd change things. I chose reverse applique. My melons look like eggs.
Then I studied the photo of Jane's block and I'm pretty sure she did not reverse applique the melons.
I'm going to redo this block and applique the melons on top of the block.

FIY

2010-04-20T08:44:00.000-07:00

I've had quite a few requests for a "PDF only" Rainbow Jane BOM so, with permission from Brenda, it is now available.
Even though no fabric will be included in the BOM, I'm planning to have fabric packs available separately.

(Instructions for a new block will be up here later today or tomorrow.)

Progress Update

2010-04-18T04:44:00.000-07:00

Too keep me motivated I scanned the latest blocks and updated the progress wall.

Wow! The end is nigh!

BR-3

2010-04-17T15:33:00.000-07:00

Back in the saddle, I hope. For some or other reason, this is my third blue block in a row.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper and number the sections as in the photo.
It may help to look at the photo of the pieced block in the next step because all the extra lines on the diagram can be a little confusing.

Foundation piece the block, following the numbers. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Trace or print the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper. Cut out the bottom section as below. Iron the freezer paper into position on the right side of the pieced block, lining up the seam markings on the paper with the seams on the block.
Cut out the triangle, leaving a seam allowance for turning under. Clip the sharp top corner.

Out of main block fabric, cut a 5" x 5" square and lay it right side up on the table. Place the block right side up on top of it, making sure that the triangle you cut out completely covers the fabric.
Baste securely through all layers to keep them in place.

Turning under the seam allowance, reverse applique the triangle.
Remove the freezer paper and press.

Cut the next block section out of the freezer paper, adding the 1/4" seam allowance on the sides.
Iron the freezer paper into position.
Cut out the two kites, leaving a seam allowance for turning under.
Out of main block fabric, cut a rectangle 4" x 6" and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block right side up on top of it, once again making sure that the main block fabric completely fills the kite cut outs.
Baste through all layers.

Turning under the seam allowance, reverse applique the two kites.
Remove the freezer paper and basting.
Press the block.

Not perfect, but DONE!

An Unintended Break

2010-04-16T07:49:00.000-07:00

Wow! I'm SO sorry!

Due to some unforseen happenings on the homefront, I have completely "spaced" on the blocks.

I promise to get my you-know-what together over the weekend and start afresh next week.

I-10

2010-04-08T10:12:00.000-07:00

This one was a bit of a headscratcher.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece the four numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew them together in pairs and then sew the two resulting sections together.
I'm not a fan of inset seams but, because the angles on these are so shallow, it actually wasn't too hard.
Iron the seam allowances on the center square to the back and baste in place.

Cut a 3" x 3" square out of background fabric.
Place the block over the top of the background fabric square, baste, and applique in place.
Remove the basting stitches.

Note: I believe that sometimes there is room for steam in quilting. This was such an instance. As long at you don't move the iron back and forth too much the block will be fine. My apologies to the quilt gods.

G-12

2010-04-04T21:37:00.000-07:00

Looks like I'm down to one block a week now. I promise it'll pick up. I'm going on a retreat this weekend and will be taking my fabric and camera. Hopefully I can catch up a bit.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, cut out, and number as in the photo.
We will be piecing the large center section and ignoring the shapes for now.

Foundation piece the block, following the numbers. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Applique the "bottom" shape. To determine the shape, just extend the lines until they meet. Does that make sense?
I used "freezer paper on top", where you iron the freezer paper shape to the right side of the fabric and then turn under the seam allowance along the edge of the freezer paper..

Applique the top shape. I used freezer paper again. (The smudges are from my printer eating the freezer paper on the first try.)

M-5

2010-03-31T14:28:00.000-07:00

I apologize for the sporadic appearance of block instructions.
I'm still struggling with the "monster" block and it's really holding me back. I keep hoping I'll see the light and find a simple solution, but not yet.

Here's an easy one.

Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
You have to mirror the diagram.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the small pieced sections together in pairs as below.
Out of background fabric, cut two strips 7/8" x 2 3/4".

Referring to the block diagram, sew the block sections together as below.

Sew the two resulting sections together.

LS-3

2010-03-27T10:50:00.000-07:00

Some piecing, some applique.

Trace or print the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
We will be ignoring the melons for now.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Print or trace the top block section onto freezer paper and cut out. Also cut out the inside of the melon.
Iron the freezer paper template to the right side of the top block section, centering it carefully. Cut out the melon, leaving a small seam allowance. Clip the sharp inside corners and curves.

Out of main block fabric, cut a 3" x 5" section and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block section on top.
Baste through all layers. Baste far enough from the freezer paper edges to allow you to turn under the seam allowance.

Turning under the seam allowance, reverse applique the melon. Remove the freezer paper and trim away the excess fabric from the back of the block section.

Print or trace the bottom block section onto freezer paper and cut out the triangular section containing the melon shape, as well as the melon.
Iron the freezer paper to the right side of the bottom block section as in the photo.
Cut out the melon shape, leaving a small seam allowance. Clip the sharp inside corners and curves.

Out of background fabric, cut a 2.5" x 4" section and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block section on top.
Baste through all layers. Baste far enough from the freezer paper edges to allow you to turn under the seam allowance.

Turning under the seam allowance, reverse applique the melon. Remove the freezer paper and trim away the excess fabric from the back of the block section.

Sew together the bottom three block sections.

Attach the top section.

K-9

2010-03-21T17:32:00.000-07:00

Somewhere along the line time got ahead of me. I was trying to figure out a complicated block and my brain just wouldn't cooperate. Maybe this week.

This one is simple.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the diagram.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Out of main block fabric, cut a 3 1/4" x 3 1/4" square and cut it in half on the diagonal.

Sew together the three center block sections.

Attach the pieced side sections.

Finally attach the main fabric triangles.

K-2

2010-03-16T10:49:00.000-07:00

Simple strip-pieced block.

Out of background fabric, cut three strips 1 1/8" x 7".
Out of main block fabric, cut three strips 1 1/8" x 7".

Sew them together along the long edges, alternating fabrics.

Cut the resulting 4 1/4" x 7" pieced section into six 1 1/8" wide sections and flip each second section 180 degrees.

Sew all six sections together as below.

Out of background fabric, cut
One strip 7/8" x 4 1/4"
Two strips 7/8" x 4 5/8"
One strip 7/8" x 5".

Referring to the block diagram, sew these strips to the outside edges of the block log-cabin style.

(The block isn't as wonky as it looks. It just wouldn't lay flat for the photo.)

TR-10

2010-03-12T11:08:00.000-08:00

It was a little tricky figuring out the numbering and construction sequence for this one.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo. I extended a little line at the top to avoid having to applique a teenie little kite.

Foundation piece each numbered section and cut the bottom section out of main block fabric. Trim all seam allowances to 1/4".

Now for the construction.
I took a series of photos to show the steps.
I think this will be easier than trying to explain.
I laid out all the pieces in their correct positions on the table and then started putting them together, placing the completed sections back in their spots.

5: (You will have to sew a simple set in seam here.)

BR-11

2010-03-10T10:19:00.000-08:00

Is it me or are the days getting shorter instead of longer?

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Important! You have to mirror this diagram.
If you're printing from the software remember to change the block size to 5" x 8".

Foundation piece all sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew together the first four sections as below.

Attach the top section.

Attach the smaller side section.

Attach the remaining side section.

Finally sew on the bottom section.

I-7

2010-03-06T10:17:00.000-08:00

I apologize for the tardiness of this post.
I've made 12 little blocks in the last 2 days. That's my excuse.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out the center sections as below.

Foundation piece both sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the two pieced sections together.
Out of background fabric, cut
2 pieces 1 1/4" x 3 1/2"
2 pieces 1 1/4" x 5"

Sew the short background fabric strips to the sides and then the longer ones to the top of the block.

Applique the little triangles into place. I had quite a bit of trouble with these. If anyone has tops on appliqueing teenie triangles, please speak up.

H-9

2010-03-01T13:19:00.000-08:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out the center section as below.
Important! You have to mirror this diagram.
I didn't and now my block is a mirror image of the original, but I think I'm going to leave it that way.

Foundation piece the two numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Out of background fabric, cut two squares 2 7/8" x 2 7/8" and cut each in half on the diagonal.

Sew the two pieced block sections together and then attach a background fabric triangle to each corner.

Applique the four kites into position.

J-10

2010-02-26T07:16:00.000-08:00

Appliqueing 16 little melons took way longer than expected.
And I'm not happy with the center ones so I'm redoing them as we speak.

Anyhow...

Out of background fabric, cut
two strips 2 3/4" x 1 5/8"
two strips 5" x 1 5/8"

Out of main block fabric, cut
one square 2 3/4" x 2 3/4"

Sew the smaller background fabric strips to two sides of the square.

Attach the longer strips to the top and bottom.

Mark the positions of the melons on the block using a disappearing or washable marker.

Applique away!

I had to scan the block because it's still dark outside. I really hate those center melons.

I-11

2010-02-22T13:42:00.000-08:00

Out of main block fabric, cut 4 squares 2 3/4" x 2 3/4".

Piece these four squares together into a four-patch as below. Press all seams open.

Out of background fabric, cut 4 squares 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" and piece them into a four-patch as well.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out. Cut out the kites and center square.
Iron the freezer paper block template to the right side of the main fabric nine patch, lining up the seam lines.
Cut out the shapes, leaving a seam allowance for turning under.

Lay the background fabric four-patch right side up on the table. Place the main fabric block section right side up on top of it. Line up all the seam lines.
Baste through all layers to secure them. Do not baste so close to the freezer paper edge that you won't be able to turn under the seam allowances.
Clip all the inside corners.

Turning the seam allowances under, reverse applique the four kites and the center square.

Remove the freezer paper and press.
Trim away the excess background fabric from the back of the block.

Progress Update

2010-02-19T08:56:00.000-08:00

176 blocks

Robin is up to date too!

If you have a progress chart you'd like to share, let me know.

LS-4

2010-02-18T16:36:00.000-08:00

I'm trying to finish all the rows evenly, choosing blocks from the "shortest" rows.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out the top sections as in the photo.
You have to mirror this diagram.

Foundation piece each block section and trim seam allowances to 1/4". Note that the center triangle in the bottom section has been pieced without the cutout.

Set aside the bottom pieced section. Sew the smaller sections together as below.

Sew the three resulting sections together to form the top part of the block.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper. Cut out the section corresponding to the bottom pieced section and iron it into position on the right side of the section. Cut out the curved section, leaving a seam allowance. Clip along the curved edge.

Out of background fabric, cut a rectangle 6" x 8" and place it right side up on the table.
Lay the block section right side up close to the top of the rectangle, centering it.
Baste through all layers. Don't baste too close to the curved edge. You want to be able to turn the seam allowances under.

Turning under the seam allowances along the bottom edge (straight and curved), applique the block section to the background fabric rectangle. Remove the freezer paper and press.

Cut the remaining block section out of the freezer paper and iron into position as below.
Cut out the center shape and bottom curves, leaving a seam allowance for turning under. Clip the curves.

Out of main block fabric, cut a rectangle 6" x 8" and lay it right side up on the table.
Place the block right side up on top of it, lining up the top fabric edges.
Baste through all layers along the freezer paper edges.

Turning under the seam allowances, applique the center shape and bottom curves. Remove the freezer paper and press.

Trim the block section to size. Cut away any excess fabric from the back to reduce bulk.

Sew the appliqued bottom section to the top block section.

J-11

2010-02-15T09:01:00.000-08:00

The Olympics are on! Expect lots of applique.

Cut a 6"x 6" square out of background fabric.
Using a disappearing or washable marker, mark the positions of all the melons on the right side of the fabric.

Using your preferred applique method, applique the melons into position.
I like to use "freezer paper inside" for melons.
Trim the block to 5" x 5".
Voila!

L-9

2010-02-11T13:03:00.000-08:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as below.
(Ignore the little unpieced triangles. We'll rotary cut them.)

Following the numbers, foundation piece each numbered section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".
Out of background fabric, cut 2 squares 2 3/8" x 2 3/8" and cut each in half on the diagonal.

Sew together the three center sections.

Attach the four side sections.

Finally sew on the four background fabric triangles.

BR-12

2010-02-09T13:48:00.000-08:00

The bottom row has been neglected slightly.

I decided to amend the diagram slightly to allow me to piece the bottom section. If you'd like you're, of course, welcome to applique it.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number and cut out as below.
Important! You have to mirror this diagram.

Foundation piece the numbered sections and cut the unnumbered sections out of background fabric. All seam allowances should be cut to 1/4".
You'll notice that the narrow top section is not in the photo. I thought I could "cheat" my way through it but I couldn't. So cut that out too.

Sew together the three center sections as below.

Attach the non-pieced triangle.

Attach the bottom section.
Finally attach the narrow top section.

G-6

2010-02-04T16:04:00.000-08:00

I've been dreading this one for a while.
My advice: Put away your perfectionistic tendencies right now. Go have a look at Jane's block. It's all but perfect.

Ready?

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, cut out and number as in the photo.
Note that the little "frame" around the mini star is not here. We'll add that in a later step.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim their seam allowances to 1/4".
Cut the two unnumbered triangles out of main block fabric. Remember to add 1/4" seam allowances there as well.

Construct the small star by sewing the sections together.

Out of background fabric, cut four rectangles 1.5" x 3".
Sew these to the center star log-cabin style.
The center section will not end up looking exactly like the block diagram, but this is the easier way. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think making it look like the diagram would require some set in seams.

Using a light table or window, mark the seam lines of the center section on the fabric and cut out, adding a 1/4" seam allowance.

Sew the two main fabric triangles to the center section.

Attach the top section.

Lastly, add the remaining two sections.
Not bad, I think.

Oh, did I mention that I made two of these today?

I-6

2010-02-01T08:42:00.000-08:00

Out of main block fabric, cut 4 squares 2.5" x 2.5"

Assemble them into a four-patch as in the photo.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the center shape.
Iron the freezer paper shape onto the right side of the nine-patch, lining up the seam lines.
Cut out, leaving a scant 1/4" seam allowance.

Out of background fabric, cut a square 6" x 6".
Baste the main fabric shape onto the center of the background fabric square. (I forgot to take the photo until I had started the applique.)

Applique, turning the seam allowance under and clipping the corners where needed. Remove the freezer paper and press.

Using your favorite applique method, applique the main fabric melons into position. I like "freezer paper inside" for melons.
Trim the block to 5" x 5" and press.

TRC (Top Right Corner)

2010-01-28T01:47:00.000-08:00

Here it is! Our first corner kite.
I think mine is destined for the "redo" pile, with the wonky stars, wonky seams, and chopped off points, but the construction method won't change (except maybe the applique techniques).

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the sections shown in the photo below.

Foundation piece all the numbered sections and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the pieced sections together in pairs to form the four sides of the center square as below.

I used reverse applique for the center star. I'm not sure this was the best method. I'm having a really hard time getting the points sharp, but here's how I did it:
Cut a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" square out of main block fabric.
Cut a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" square out of background fabric.
Print or trace the center star onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out the inside of the star. Be sure to mark the seam lines of the center section on the freezer paper for resizing the square when you finish your applique.
Iron the freezer paper to the right side of the main block fabric square.

Cut out the inside of the star, leaving a small seam allowance for turning under when you applique.
Place the background fabric square right side up on the table. Place the main fabric square right side up on top of it. Baste securely through all layers.

Turning the seam allowance under and clipping where necessary, reverse applique the star.
Trim the square to 3" x 3". Remove the freezer paper.

Sew the four pieced sections to the sides of the center appliqued section.

I decided to use "freezer paper on top" for the other star to see if the points would turn out any better, but you can, of course, reverse applique this one too.
Mark the position of the other star, as well as the seam lines of the block section, onto a piece of background fabric. Applique.
Cut out the block section. Don't forget to add the seam allowance.

Cut the remaining shapes out of background fabric.
Also out of background fabric, cut
1 strip 7/8" x 6"
1 strip 7/8" x 7"

Referring to the block diagram, sew the shapes to the block.

Sew the 6" strip to the top and the 7"strip to the side of the block and trim to align with the block edges.

Sew the appliqued triangle to the bottom of the block.

M-1

2010-01-25T01:40:00.000-08:00

This one turned out better than expected. It's hard to keep lines straight on blocks this little.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out the center sections as in the photo. (I had some focus issues but I think the numbering is clear-ish.)

Foundation piece each numbered section and trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the three center sections together.

Sew a triangular section to each of two opposite ends of the center section.

Attach the other two triangles.
Out of background fabric, cut:
1 strip 1" x 3 1/4"
2 strips 1" x 3 3/4"
1 strip 1" x 4 1/4"

Sew these strips to the center block section log-cabin style. Be sure to refer to the block diagram for the sequence.

Out of main block fabric, cut:
1 strip 7/8" x 4 1/4"
2 strips 7/8" x 4 5/8"
1 strip 7/8" x 5"

Sew these strips to the block log-cabin style. Be sure to refer to the block diagram for the sequence.

BR-2

2010-01-21T13:33:00.000-08:00

Simple foundation piecing.

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.
Remember to change the block size to 5"x 8" if you're printing.
This block also has to be mirrored if you want the little top piece to point the right way.

Foundation piece all sections and trim seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew together the two bottom block sections.

Referring to the block diagram, assemble the block, starting from the bottom and checking the alignment after every seam. This way you won't realize you have a wonky block after sewing all the sections together.

J-13

2010-01-19T13:53:00.000-08:00

Print or trace the block diagram onto foundation paper, number, and cut out as in the photo.

Foundation piece each section, following the numbers.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Sew the side sections to the center section.
Sew the top and bottom sections to the block.

Applique the tear shapes into position.
I used the "freezer paper inside" method.

Is it art?

2010-01-15T04:41:00.000-08:00

I've spent this week writing instructions for the new Rainbow Jane session.
I love drawing the little diagrams, although it takes ages.
This month, we're making our first corner kite.
Can you guess which one it is?

(And yes, we will be making our first corner kite over here this month as well.)

M-7

2010-01-14T05:04:00.000-08:00

Applique fun.

Print or trace the block diagram onto the dull side of freezer paper, and cut out the "frame" as in the photo below.
Out of main block fabric, cut a 6" x 6" square. I like to cut the fabric bigger and trim it down later because with applique there is sometimes a bit of "shrinkage".
Iron the freezer paper frame onto the right side of the fabric square.

Using the freezer paper as a guide, applique the four background fabric melons into position.
I like the "freezer paper inside" method for melons.

Carefully remove the freezer paper.
Out of background fabric, cut a 6"x 6" square.
If the freezer paper frame will still stick, iron it to the right side of the background fabric square.
If not, you'll have to retrace/reprint the block.
Cut out the inside of the frame, leaving a scant 1/4" seam allowance. Clip the curves.

Place the background fabric square right side up on top of the appliqued main fabric section, carefully positioning the melons in relation to the frame.
Baste through all layers.

Reverse applique along the freezer paper edge.
Remove the freezer paper and trim away any excess main block fabric from the back of the block.

Lastly, applique the four main fabric melons onto the block.